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8/11/2007

Summer Beauty Fix-It Guide

Prevent it:

"The combination of sun and chlorine dehydrates and bleaches your hair, so you need to take really good care of it," says Brenda Berry, owner of Brilli Salon in Chicago. At the beach or pool, apply a product with built-in UV protectants, like Redken UV Rescue Shimmering Defense Daily Care Protective Lotion ($15, redken.com; 1). Or make your own, using items you already have around the house, says Ted Gibson of the Ted Gibson Salon in New York City (it could cost as little as three bucks!). His recipe: In a spray bottle, mix equal parts water, sunscreen, and regular leave-in conditioner.

Spray your hair once when you first get to the pool, and again each time you get your hair wet.

Fix it:

An intense deep-conditioning mask will help replenish moisture and soften fried hair fast. Try Joico K-PAK Sun Therapy Treatment Masque ($16, joico.com).

Problem: Frizz

Prevent it:

When the cuticles of your hair don't lie flat (because they're dry, damaged, or naturally coarse), they serve as an easy entry point for frizz-causing moisture. To fight back, "take your first two preventive steps in the shower," says Roy Teeluck of the Roy Teeluck Salon in New York City. "The less you disturb the cuticle there, the less frizz you'll deal with later." He recommends gently applying a smoothing shampoo to your scalp (almost as if you're slowly massaging it in), and then combing it through with a wide-toothed comb before rinsing. Next step: conditioner. If you have thick or coarse hair, repeat the massaging and combing when you condition; for fine hair, put the product only on the ends, then comb — that will distribute just enough to the rest of your head. To try: Swissco Soft Touch Shower Comb ($5, drugstore.com; 4).

Once you're out of the shower, apply a frizz-fighting serum before blow-drying hair or letting it air-dry. (Serums are heavy enough to keep the cuticle closed.) One we tested and liked: Citré Shine Shine Miracle Anti-Frizz Serum ($4, drugstores; 3).

Fix it:

A pea-size drop of that same serum will tamp down midday frizz. If your hair is thin and fine, try a cream instead (it's lighter than serum and won't weigh down strands). We like Dove Advanced Care Sheer Moisture Anti-Frizz Finishing Cream ($5, drugstores; 2).

Photo: Chris Eckert

GOAL 2: MAKEUP THAT LASTS

Problem: Midday meltdown

Prevent it:

By lunchtime, your foundation, shadow, and blush are practically gone. The solution? Lighten up. "Less is always better in the summer," says New York City makeup artist Laura Geller. Switching to a tinted moisturizer is a good start — it will feel ultralight while still providing enough coverage. If you can't bear to give up your favorite foundation, Geller suggests applying it with a damp sponge. "This will help by sheering it out so it won't be too heavy," she explains.

Finally, consider oil-free primers, which go on after moisturizer but before makeup. "A thin coat of primer creates a barrier on the skin's surface," says Geller. "It locks in the moisture and keeps it separate from your makeup, so foundation has less of an opportunity to sink in and disappear." We like Laura Mercier Foundation Primer ($30, department stores; 5). Geller herself makes a good primer, Laura Geller Spackle Cream Under Makeup Primer, that, at $21.50 (qvc.com), is also one of the most reasonably priced.

Fix it:

Getting rid of excess oil will help a lot. "Keep blotting papers in your handbag — they're great for quick touch-ups throughout the day," says Danielle Doyle, a Houston-based makeup artist. Try Boscia California Orange Blotting Linens ($10, beauty.com; 8). If your makeup does an afternoon disappearing act, Doyle recommends applying extra concealer over any remaining makeup. Just add it where you really need it — on blemishes or the red areas around your nose — then blend.

Problem: Runny eye makeup

Prevent it:

"In hot weather, skip the mascara on your lower lashes," says Geller. "Every time you blink, moisture breaks down your makeup, causing it to run." If you would rather not go without something on your bottom lashes, switch to a waterproof version. We like Avon Wash-Off Waterproof Mascara ($6.50, avon.com).

On the stay-put scale, powders or eye shadows applied with a brush will last longer than cream or pencil liners. Geller also recommends eye primer. "A very thin amount, just on the lid and a little under the lower lashes, clings to the wax in makeup and makes it last longer," she explains. Try Mary Kay Signature Eye Primer ($12, marykay.com; 7).

Fix it:

Try the Revlon Makeup Eraser Pen ($8, drugstores; 9). This no-mess solution for errant mascara and liner slips easily into your purse.

Problem: Over-bronzing

Prevent it:

"The idea is to get a fresh, subtle glow; you don't want to look like a terra-cotta pot," says Geller. To avoid bronzer overload, choose a pinkish shade or one with several different colors that you swirl together with a brush — those will look the most natural. Try Black Radiance Mosaic Bronzer in Summer Shimmer ($5, drugstores; 6). When you apply, use a big, fluffy brush (a smaller, stiff one will deposit color too quickly and heavily), and add only a little bronzer at a time.

Fix it:

If you've gone overboard, take a clean brush and swipe it over your face — the bristles should pick up some of the extra color. Wipe the brush on a towel and repeat until you've successfully de-bronzed.

By Chris Eckert

GOAL 3: CLEAR, EVEN-TONED SKIN

Problem: Sunburn

Prevent it:

Whether you're walking on the beach or to the office, a minimum of SPF 30 sunscreen every day is nonnegotiable. "Even more important than the SPF number, though, is that you use enough," says Doris J. Day, M.D., clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the New York University Medical Center. She advises reapplying every two hours, keeping in mind that it takes one ounce to cover the entire body.

Fix it:

"Sunburn is really a first-degree burn," says Ronald Moy, M.D., a dermatologist at the California Health and Longevity Institute in Westlake Village, CA. "Treat it initially with ice and cold compresses. Then take a nonsteroidal pain reliever, like Advil, and use a 1 percent hydrocortisone cream — both will cut down on inflammation." Try Aveeno 1% Hydrocortisone Anti-Itch Cream ($6, drugstores).

Problem: Back blemishes

Prevent them:

These breakouts are bad even when safely hidden under a turtleneck — and tank top season is worse. Sticking to a regular cleansing and treating regimen is the key to beating this stubborn form of acne. Wash daily with a benzoyl peroxide- or salicylic acid-enriched cleanser, and use a specially formulated scrub once or twice a week to really unclog pores. (Exfoliating more frequently can over-irritate and lead to scarring, says Dr. Day.) Body wash we like: Neutrogena Body Clear Body Wash ($6, drugstores; 13). Scrub to try: DDF Pumice Acne Scrub ($32, sephora.com).

Fix them:

A leave-on treatment, applied day and night, should help clear up existing blemishes. Spray versions are particularly ideal for this hard-to-reach area; look for one with salicylic acid. To try: Clinique Acne Solutions Body Treatment Spray ($19.50, department stores; 10).

Problem: Obvious tan lines

Prevent them:

Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen.

Fix them:

To hide evidence of swimsuit straps, apply self-tanner to the fairer section of skin, using a makeup sponge to blend in the edges, says Doyle. Once the self-tanner has developed, sweep on powder bronzer to complete the disguise. A jumbo compact like Lumene Terracotta Bronzing Powder ($13, CVS; 12) — along with a large, soft brush — makes the process quicker and easier.

Problem: Self-tanner streaking

Prevent it:

Dry skin absorbs more product, resulting in uneven splotches, so exfoliate beforehand. Excess tanner causes streaks, too, so be sure you really rub it in as you apply.

Fix it:

"Dip a washcloth into rubbing alcohol and gently buff the area that is too dark," says Doyle. "Both the alcohol and the exfoliating action of the cloth will take away some of the tanning pigment." Amazingly, there are new products specifically designed to erase telltale tanner mishaps — fast. We like L'Oréal Sublime Bronze Self-Tanning Perfector and Corrector ($10, drugstores; 11).

By Chris Eckert

GOAL 4: FLIP-FLOP-READY FEET

Problem: Dry heels

Prevent them:

To help keep flakes at bay, moisturize frequently, and exfoliate with a foot scrub once a week.

Fix them:

"Look for creams with urea or lactic acid," says Dr. Moy. "Both help the skin retain water." We like Jessica Zen Spa Revitalizing Citrus Souffle ($17, jessicacosmetics.com; 14) and Sally Hansen Just Feet Spa Foot Creme ($6, drugstores; 15). In a pinch, Skyy Hadley, manicurist and owner of As U Wish Nail Spa in Hoboken, NJ, suggests taking regular body lotion and mixing it with Vaseline to up the softening power.

Problem: Chipped polish

Prevent it:

Fastest way to ruin a perfect pedicure? A tiny but oh-so-frustrating nick in the color. "Good application is the key to making sure polish resists chipping and lasts longer," explains Jessica Vartoughian, owner of Jessica's Nail Clinic in West Hollywood, CA. She recommends applying two layers of base coat and then brushing on polish generously, making sure to go under the tip of the nail. Follow up with one layer of top coat. We like: OPI Designer Series Top Coat ($12.50, opi.com; 16).

Fix it:

If you have a chip, Vartoughian suggests first softening the raised edges by smoothing on a drop of polish remover. Then apply polish to the chipped portion only. Once it dries, add another layer over the entire nail and follow up with top coat. If you have a French pedicure and it chips, try this quick fake-it: "Paint a little Wite-Out on the tip and put a clear coat over it," Hadley says. "No one will ever know.

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